Walking Tokyo's shopping streets — the day and the hour decide everything
The same street becomes a different place depending on the date. Days ending in four, late December, the afternoon.
Tokyo's shopping streets become different places depending on when you go. Guidebooks rarely mention this, so it is easy to visit on an ordinary day and leave thinking it was just a street.
Only on days ending in four
Called the Harajuku of grandmothers. Stalls appear on the 4th, 14th and 24th.
Sugamo Jizo-dori holds a fair on days ending in four — the 4th, 14th and 24th — when stalls fill the street and the crowds arrive. On other days it is a quiet shopping road.
Its landmark is the thorn-removing Jizo, named after a story about a swallowed needle. The rule with the washing Kannon is to clean the part of the statue matching your own ailment. A bad shoulder means you wash the statue's shoulder.
Shops selling red underwear draw their own queues — also part of the scene here.
December 28th to 31st transforms the street
For four days at year's end it becomes another street entirely.
Ameyoko is always busy, but from 28 to 31 December the New Year shopping crowds change the character of the place completely.
There is a technique to haggling: do not bargain item by item — bundle first. Pick out several things, then ask the price for all of it.
Note — the fishmongers do not take cards. And some trays have fish propped up at the front, so it is worth looking underneath.
Cars are barred in the afternoon
The original of every '○○ Ginza' in Japan. Some twenty shops sell croquettes.
Togoshi Ginza is the original that every other "○○ Ginza" in Japan copied. Around twenty shops along its 1.3 kilometres sell croquettes, and comparing them as you walk is how the street is used.
In the afternoon vehicles are excluded and it becomes a pedestrian zone — better with children, or if you want to take your time.
Somewhere to go when it rains
All 560 metres are covered.
Happy Road Oyama is roofed for its full 560 metres, which makes it useful on a wet day when nothing else suggests itself.
It has a regional produce shop contracted directly with municipalities across Japan, so you can buy provincial specialities without leaving Tokyo.
However — this street is disappearing. Part of the arcade is scheduled for demolition under a road project. If you want to see it, do not put it off.
Getting between them by tram
The last city-run tram in Tokyo. One flat fare however far you go.
To combine Sugamo with the Kita ward side, the Toden Arakawa Line is the practical choice. You board at the front and pay on boarding, one flat fare regardless of distance.
Three stops or more and the day pass pays for itself. Cherry blossom in spring; roses along the track in May and October.
In short
- Sugamo — go on the 4th, 14th or 24th
- Ameyoko — peaks 28–31 December. Cash at the fishmongers
- Togoshi Ginza — afternoons are pedestrian-only
- Oyama — for rainy days, and sooner rather than later
- Getting around — the Toden day pass
Hours and event dates change. Please confirm before travelling.