TOKYO 23
Toden Arakawa Line
A photograph of this place. Tokyo Sakura Tram (都電荒川線).jpg · Mink1809 · CC0
Showa Retro  ·  No. 179

Toden Arakawa Line

都電荒川線(東京さくらトラム)  ·  Toden Arakawa Line

Ward
Arakawa
Price
¥170 per ride (¥165 with IC card); ¥400 day pass
Hours
First car about 05:00, last ab
Closed
Open daily
Getting there
Minowabashi to Waseda, 12.2km end to end
Founded
1911
Local tip
  • It works like a bus: board at the front, pay as you enter, alight at the rear
  • A day pass costs ¥400, so three rides pay for it
  • The sole survivor of a network that once ran forty lines
See real photos

We do not republish copyrighted photographs. Use the links below to see the actual venue.

Local Knowledge

Obvious to locals, invisible to visitors

There is a simple reason guidebooks leave this out: to the people who live here it is too obvious to be worth explaining.

Unwritten rule
It works like a bus: board at the front, pay as you enter, alight at the rear

It works like a bus: board at the front, pay as you enter, alight at the rear. One flat fare covers any distance, and IC cards work. First-timers often try to board at the back.

How to order
A day pass costs ¥400, so three rides pay for it

A day pass costs ¥400, so three rides pay for it. You can buy it onboard, or have it loaded onto your IC card — just tell the conductor on your first ride, then tap freely afterwards.

The backstory
The sole survivor of a network that once ran forty lines

The sole survivor of a network that once ran forty lines. Most were scrapped as cars took over; this one lasted because so much of it runs on dedicated track — only 1.7 of its 12.2km share the road.

Local timing
True to its nickname, Tokyo Sakura Tram, Asukayama and Zoshigaya are cherry spots

True to its nickname, Tokyo Sakura Tram, Asukayama and Zoshigaya are cherry spots. Along the Arakawa stretch, residents tend some twelve thousand rose bushes that bloom in late spring and mid-autumn.

What it is

Arakawa is a ward the shitamachi ward the Toden tram runs through. More than half the customers came alone — reading, or watching the window, each quietly minding their own. The coffee is on the strong side — say so up front if you prefer it lighter. Hours go irregular over long holidays; check before setting out. Map apps drift in the narrow lanes; for the last hundred metres, look for the sign instead. This is one of those places that beats its photos. People often arrive with low expectations and leave surprised.

What to order

Why locals keep coming

It photographs well: the lighting and palette run exactly counter to current trends, which makes it stand out. The menu is simple enough that you cannot really go wrong — everything on it has been made for years.