Cash only, or no cash at all — paying in old Tokyo
"Japan runs on cash" is now only half true. The trouble is knowing which half you are walking into.
Work through Tokyo's older establishments and payment splits into two extremes. Places that take no cards and places that take no cash exist in the same city.
Cash only
Sumatra Curry Kyoeido, founded 1924, is cash only. All 42 seats are tables, so a solo diner never has to squeeze onto a counter — but the till belongs to another era.
likewise takes no cards. In Golden Gai, Albatross G Golden Gai adds a ¥500 charge and is cash only.
At standing bars like Tachinomi Ikoi, bring cash and small change. Turnover is quick, and large notes slow everyone down.
At Ameyoko Shopping Street it depends on the trade: the fishmongers do not take cards.
And the reverse
Harukiya Ogikubo is entirely cashless. Offer cash and it will not be accepted. Arriving at a long-established ramen shop expecting the opposite catches people out.
Both exist in the same city
A curry house founded in 1924 takes only cash; an old ramen shop refuses it. "Old establishment, therefore cash" is not a safe assumption.
How to prepare
- Several ¥1,000 notes at all times — many places want small denominations
- A charged transit IC card (Suica, PASMO) — cashless venues almost always take these
- Older shops often post payment terms at the door. Check before entering
- For ATMs, convenience stores are the reliable option; banks keep hours
Why the split
Places that insist on cash are usually the ones where turnover is everything. The few seconds a card terminal takes weigh on the queue outside. Those that went cashless reached the same goal from the other direction — no change to count, no till to manage.
Opposite methods, one reason: move people through.