TOKYO 23
Meikyoku Kissa Lion
A photograph of this place. 名曲喫茶ライオンの看板.jpg · Eugene Ormandy · CC BY-SA 4.0
Showa Retro  ·  No. 121

Meikyoku Kissa Lion

名曲喫茶ライオン  ·  Meikyoku Kissa Lion

Ward
Shibuya
Price
¥650~900
Hours
13:00–20:00, varying by season
Closed
1–4 Jan and four days in summer
Getting there
10 min walk from Shibuya Stn, in the Hyakkendana quarter
Founded
1926
Local tip
  • House rules, stated outright
  • Nobody greets you at the door
  • Every ground-floor seat faces the towering speaker
See real photos

We do not republish copyrighted photographs. Use the links below to see the actual venue.

Local Knowledge

Obvious to locals, invisible to visitors

There is a simple reason guidebooks leave this out: to the people who live here it is too obvious to be worth explaining.

Unwritten rule
House rules, stated outright

House rules, stated outright: no loud conversation, no photography of any kind, phones on silent with calls taken outside, no outside food. Even the staff move quietly. Walk in expecting a cafe and you will be caught off guard.

Unwritten rule
Nobody greets you at the door

Nobody greets you at the door. Sit quietly wherever is free and water and the day's programme will arrive — the absence of service is itself consideration for the other listeners.

How to order
Every ground-floor seat faces the towering speaker

Every ground-floor seat faces the towering speaker. For the full effect, tell a staff member and take the front row upstairs. The left and right speakers are deliberately different sizes, calculated for resolution.

Local timing
Scheduled concerts at 3pm and 7pm daily, with the programme handed to you on arrival

Scheduled concerts at 3pm and 7pm daily, with the programme handed to you on arrival. Outside those hours you may request a piece, or bring your own record or CD. The collection runs past ten thousand discs.

The backstory
Founded in 1926, burned out in the 1945 air raids, and rebuilt five years later to

Founded in 1926, burned out in the 1945 air raids, and rebuilt five years later to exactly the same design. The lion reliefs and carved pillars were cut by the founder himself. It stands frozen in time amid the love-hotel signage behind Dogenzaka.

What it is

Shibuya is a ward where old cafes hold out at the centre of trends. Prices have been corrected by hand — raised, but with visible reluctance to look like they were raised. Cream soda looks deeper in person than in photos, and the glassware differs from shop to shop. Hours go irregular over long holidays; check before setting out. Leave large bags in a station locker; there is not much room inside. It would be a waste to stop at just this one — there is more of the same density within five hundred metres.

What to order

Why locals keep coming

The menu is simple enough that you cannot really go wrong — everything on it has been made for years. Not renovating turned out to be the strongest differentiator — this is a kind of space you cannot build new.