Four kissaten in one Jimbocho alley — where you sit decides the afternoon
One alley, four rooms, four kinds of music. Decide first whether you came to read or to listen.
Jimbocho is known for second-hand books, but what actually holds the district together is somewhere to sit and read them. Step one street back from Yasukuni-dori and four very different kissaten sit within a few minutes' walk.
The one with the totem pole — and the one next door
Founded 1955. The totem pole and red payphone outside are the landmark.
Everyone in Jimbocho knows that frontage. But ordering a meal here goes wrong: the original serves drinks and simple toast, while pasta dishes are handled by the second shop next door.
The food branch. A regular portion is already a large.
Two sibling shops, opened together in 1955, standing side by side. If you are hungry, start at number two.
Tucked into the corner of the menu is "Italian". Almost everyone orders the red napolitan, so it goes unnoticed — but it is salt-seasoned rather than ketchup, the same noodles wearing a different face.
Same alley, opposite worlds
Founded 1949. Said to be the first in Japan to serve Vienna coffee.
A kissaten by name, with a hundred bottled beers. Tango plays all day.
These two stand next to each other. Inside, they could not be less alike.
| Ladrio | Milonga Nueva | |
|---|---|---|
| Music | Quiet classical | Argentine tango, all day |
| Room | Brick walls, low light | Loud |
| Suits | Conversation, reading | Daytime drinking |
Regulars choose between them by mood. To talk quietly, Ladrio; to let the music take over, Milonga. The name is Spanish for a tango dance hall.
Curry is on this street too
The shop that created the 'European curry' genre. The potato served first is the real thing.
Order and a boiled potato with butter arrives before the curry does. Some people come only for that. Heat runs to three levels, with medium as the reference point.
Where the books are
Called the school where Jimbocho's booksellers trained.
It looks intimidating from outside, but you can simply walk in. Second-hand bookshops do not mind browsers.
An art-supply shop founded 1887; the building is a registered cultural property.
You do not need to paint to find something on the ground floor.
The one rule for this district
Do not come on Sunday. The book quarter goes quiet. Sabouru closes for certain, and so does Isseido. Public holidays are open but many shut at 6pm.
Weekday afternoons are this neighbourhood's hours.
Hours and closing days change. Please confirm before travelling.