Suginami

Suginami divides along the Chuo line. Ogikubo is known for ramen, Nishi-Ogikubo for antiques, and the two are one stop apart. This site takes one from each.

Ogikubo ramen is regarded as the starting point of a post-war lineage. Its clear soy-based broth, built on dried sardine and chicken bone, is close to the original form of what Tokyo now calls chuka soba. Queues at the famous shops look long, but turnover is fast and the actual wait is usually shorter than it appears.

Nishi-Ogikubo packs antique and old-furniture dealers into a small area. This is a working trade street rather than a tourist one, and shops differ completely in field and price bracket. Some welcome browsers and some do not, so reading the room before you step in is the local knack.