Sumida

Mukojima in Sumida was paddy field until the middle of the Edo period. During the Kyoho era, beginning in 1716, the eighth shogun Yoshimune had cherry trees planted along the embankment; the place became a blossom-viewing destination and teahouses multiplied to serve the crowds. The sakuramochi this site covers came out of that.

In 1717 the founder salted embankment cherry leaves in a barrel and began wrapping rice cakes in them — the beginning of Edo sakuramochi. Three centuries later the shop still sells that one item. The leaves are there to lend scent and prevent drying, so the shop advises removing them. Some customers insist that eating the leaf is the Edo way, others compromise and keep one. There is no correct answer.

From the late nineteenth century spinning mills moved into Mukojima, and the Tobu line opened in 1899, urbanising it fast. The Great Kanto Earthquake and wartime bombing wrecked much of it, and it rebuilt around industry — which is why housing and small factories still sit side by side. Walk the riverside and the face of the district switches between tourism and daily life every few blocks.