Kita

A stone marker in Oji, Kita ward, reads "birthplace of Western paper." In 1873 Shibusawa Eiichi led the founding of a paper-milling company, and its factory was completed here in 1875 — the forerunner of Oji Paper. The site was chosen for its clean water and river access for transport.

Factories bring workers, and workers bring places to drink cheaply. That is the background to Kita's many standing bars. Akabane is now counted among the leading districts for what is called senbero — getting drunk on a thousand yen. Some places open in the afternoon, and drinking early carries no stigma at all.

The bars here share a rhythm. Standing bars mean short stays and fast turnover. Not occupying a spot for long is the courtesy, and having one drink before moving on is the standard route. Ordering a single round per shop, on the assumption you will visit several, is how the neighbourhood is meant to be used.